AUSENCIAS BOWIE

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“Menos machos y más Bowies”. Con esta cita de María Bastarós se encabeza este artículo en el que se reflexiona, entre otras cosas, “sobre los conceptos de hombre y mujer como herramientas opresoras que limitan nuestras identidades y nuestra libertad de expresión”.

Por MIRIAM VEGA

Hoy me enteré demasiado tarde de la muerte de Bowie.

Ascendente de los astros de Irlanda con ojos de husky siberiano y bautizado, mas tarde, con nombre de cuchillo, así de explosivo se confabulaba el nacimiento de David Robert Jones, un ocho de enero de 1947.

No haré de puta fan en este texto y tampoco hablaré de Bowie porque se me queda grande, muy grande. Todos somos conscientes del gran vacío que deja, en la odisea espacial, y es ahí donde se me queda fija la mirada: en el vacío, en la ausencia de la estética transgresora, de identidades no binarias y ambiguas que uniteralicen y llenen el espacio, que ya poco tiene de sideral.

La alienación ya no quiere vestirnos de colores, porque molesta. No sabe de purpurinas, ni de rayos rojo/azules en la cara. No entiende de maquillaje, ni de hombreras en los hombros de los hombres (H³), y con Bowie pareciera que despedimos a una especie en extinción.

 

De las ballenas blancas pasamos al vallenato, del vallenato al reggaetón, del perrea-perrea a ver quién es la más perra y entre toda estas mierdas se sucede la lucha de sexos, donde unos no pueden vestirse como los otros, porque no vaya a ser que seas medio maricón o tengas pinta de bollera. Así de simple es el argumento y la opinión que se le muestra a la estética, esa que nos define y en la que va insertada todo un significado de códigos y valores.

Con la muerte de Bowie, ha saltado el resorte de preguntas: ¿qué es lo femenino y lo masculino en el vestir? ¿Por qué aún se considera afeminado que el hombre se maquille, se adorne o decore su apariencia?

Como en todas las historias, siempre hay dispositivos patriarcales y predominantes que dirigen todo tipo de tejidos. En el tejido de la moda y del vestir, se llamó “la gran renuncia”. Lo normativo/masculino se estableció a través del traje en el siglo XIX, el hombre burgués desertó de lo estético. Jorge Bryan Brummel, famoso y elegante decano de la moda en Londres, desde 1799 a 1814, constituyó el prototipo de la elegancia británica. El hombre burgués respondió a las características de la civilización industrial y la moda pasó a ser algo frívolo; cosas de mujeres.

Ellas, las más bellas, como manda la normatividad, siguieron las variaciones de la recargada moda del Segundo Imperio, siguiendo las tendencias de la emperatriz Eugenia; ellos se limitaron a variar sólo en detalles su atuendo con fuerte dirección inglesa. A partír de aquí, la exhibición del poder económico ystatus social solo sería mostrado a sus semejantes a través de su pareja, perteneciente siempre al sexo opuesto.[1]

En 1921, llego el hombre con sus firmes valores de austeridad, seriedad y ubicado en la empresa moderna; en 1939, los tonos sobrios y la presencia de cuello y corbata; en 1959 la estabilidad del traje hegemónico/masculino, y de repente en 1960 llegó el Punk, para devolvernos el igualitarismo.

“La transexualidad es la última forma del verdadero punk”, así se encabeza la entrevista hecha al grupo The Drums en la revista JenesaisPop[2]; quizás este sea un planteamiento que nos lleve a un nuevo Punk. Y es que, si algo consiguió el “Proto- punk” fue generar un colectivo, un cuerpo común que se salía de los límites, lo trans*.

El sonido del sintetizador se aglutinaba con palabras de diferente sentidos, la palabra se convertía en gritos biomecánios –para sacar de quicio la lengua– que politizaban la escena. La transgresión, como método para desconstruir, aniquilaba lo normativo, ensalzaba la imaginación liberada y daba visibilización a las corporalidades rebeldes[3].

Las mujeres se mezclaban con los hombres en una guerra igualitaria, la de hacer y disfrutar de la música. Los valores, el baile y la indisciplina se compartían a través de un nexo en común: el cuerpo vestido. Lo inclasificable comenzó a ser subversivo, la relación entre cuerpo, ropa y sociedad estaba servida, había una identificación de grupo y lo más importante, era una estética igualitaria.

En contra de la estética burguesa comenzaban a visibilizarse las crestas, en tributo a los mohicanos, las botas altas contra los militares y las fuerzas del orden público, las cadenas como representación de la clase esclava, los alfileres a favor de la resistencia y la rebeldía… Y como toda deriva de tendencias, del “post punk” y del “punk rock” nació el “glam rock” en los 70 y la psicodelia llenó de colores la estética. Y ahí estaban Bowie, Marc Bolan o Andy Warhol entre otros. Las botas militares se sustituyeron por tacones de aguja, los hombres con hombreras llenaban la escena “futurista” que se afianzaría en los 80, la estética formaba parte de la música y la música formaba parte de la estética. El espacio público estaba lleno de colores metalizados, el travestismo y el maquillaje eran códigos legítimos con un peso de reafirmación política y social.

Pero todo despertar es aplastado por el opio, el capitalismo trajo a los hombres grises, como cuenta la película de Momo, y nuestro recién estrenado 2016, el futuro-no futurista, carece de esa, ansiada para muchos, fantasía de purpurinas y colores metalizados. Las hombreras, en los hombros de los hombres, más bien, son recuerdos que nos llevan a “Locomía”. El maquillaje y las uñas pintadas ha pasado a ser, como dicen algunos, cosa de chicas y las tendencias nos visten en un acentuado sexismo para igualarnos, sólo, en la escasez de vello por depilación laser en nuestros tejidos.

Por eso, hoy, no sólo nos hemos despedido del “Héroe”, nos hemos despedido también de una parte importante de la historia que, de alguna manera, nos conectaba en un ser y un estar común. Hoy nos ha tocado reflexionar, como bien dice María Bastarós, redactora de “Quien coño es!”, sobre los conceptos de hombre y mujer como herramientas opresoras que limitan nuestras identidades y nuestra libertad de expresión. Hoy nos despedimos de un revolucionario y transgresor, con ojos de husky y nombre de cuchillo. Un ejemplo de transgresión de los estereotipos de género. Gracias por la frase que encabeza el artículo, María, y gracias a ti, Bowie.

—tome sus píldoras de proteinas y póngase su casco—.

 

Notas:

• [1]FERNADEZ, Diana (2012)
• [2]ALONSO, Sebas E. (2014)
• [3]LUCENA, Daniela & LABOUREAU, Gisela (2012:113)

Bibliografía/Webgrafía:

• FERNANDEZ, Diana.Sobre la “gran renuncia”. Publicado en Vestuario escénico. wordpress.com el 8 de mayo de 2012 [en línea].
• ALONSO, Sebas E. Publicado en la revista Jeneasispop el 18 de septiembre de 2014 [en línea].
• LUCENA, Daniela & LABOUREAY, Gisela.Perder la forma humana. Centro de investigaciones artísticas. Seminario coordinado por Ana Logoni en CIA. Junio y Julio 2012.